A cross between a form-fitting ballet shoe and a hiking boot, rock shoes play a key role in enhancing the performance and enjoyment of the sport of rock climbing. The components of rock shoes are the "last," the midsole, the laces or Velcro used to cinch the shoe down, the rand and the rubber.
The last, a 3-dimensional form around which a shoe is built, determines the shape of the shoe. Traditional lasts reproduce the shape of a relaxed foot and utilize a stiff midsole or a "board last" that runs the length of the shoe. Though they vary widely in width and size of toe box, heel and arch, they are typically more rigid.
Asymmetrical, cambered lasts force the foot into a curved shape in order to concentrate weight on the big toe and are typically used on overhanging terrain. The more the camber, the more a climber can "toe in" on holds. Cambered shoes are made using the slip-lasted construction methods, with a seam running the length of the shoe. Shoppers will find most all-around shoes these days fall somewhere in between these two types of shoes.
Once a shoe is "lasted," a plastic or paper midsole is added, followed by the rand and rubber. Stiff midsoles ease the stress of standing on your toes all day, but they also limit the flexibility of the shoe.
What to Look for
First determine what kind of climbing you will be doing, then visit your local shop and try on numerous pairs. Crack climbers and beginners who leave their shoes on all day often prefer the comfort of a stiffer midsole and more traditional shoe. Climbers focusing on the gymnastic, difficult routes prefer flexible midsoles and softer shoes for their sensitivity to the rock.
Also consider whether you want a Velcro shoe, slipper or lace-up. Whether a shoe has laces or not doesn't necessarily affect how it performs, but lace-ups frequently go hand-in-hand with more traditional, stiffer styles. Make sure you can cinch a lace-up shoe all the way to the end of the toe. Velcro shoes boast adjustability and easy access, but they aren't ideal for crack climbing because foot jamming often dislodges the Velcro. Slippers, typically soft, thin-soled and often unlined, allow climbers to feel even the most minuscule of holds, but they tend to wear out quickly.
Common Pitfalls
Often outdoor store staffers recommend that new climbers purchase shoes that are a few sizes too small reasoning that climbers need tight shoes in order to "feel" the rock and also that shoes, especially ones with more leather than synthetic materials, will stretch. Tight shoes can make a huge difference for high-end climbers who need that extra edge. However, too-tight shoes make a day's outing unpleasant. Beginner and intermediate climbers should consider shoes that fit snuggly and comfortably.
Be aware that high prices don't equate to better quality. Plenty of good quality low-cost shoes are available.
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