When threaded through a belay device, a climbing rope creates enough friction such that a light climber lowering her much heavier partner or rappelling herself can easily control the descent. A plethora of belay devices exist. Most include two slots: one is used for the belaying and two for rappelling. They can be categorized in three ways: the full-manual, the self-braking and the mechanical-assist.
Full-manual devices are often "bucket" style, and they bend the rope at two points. Typically lightweight, versatile and affordable, they require direct belayer action should a climber fall. Some full-manual devices have one side that creates more friction when the rope runs through it and one side that creates less.
Self-braking devices are newer and have become increasingly popular in recent years. They boast all the features of the full-manual, but also an added auto-locking component if the climber is bringing the second directly up to the anchor.
The mechanical-assist device's capacity to auto-lock extends beyond simply bringing the second up to the belay. Its built-in moving parts allow it to grab the rope any time it is weighted.
What to Look for
A few dozen different types of belay devices are available. People who will be spending more time in the mountains (and less money at the outdoor store) may want to start with either the full-manual or self-braking models. They are lighter, simpler and less expensive, and they allow for both belaying and rappelling. The Black Diamond ATC (Air Traffic Controller) and self-braking Petzl Reverso are the most popular.
Sport and gym climbers utilize mechanical-assist devices because they add that important auto-locking safety component when there are many distractions. Unfortunately, they typically weigh and cost more, and they can't accommodate single- or double-rope rappelling. The tried and true Petzl Gri Gri is most often seen at the crags, but the Trango Cinch, being more compact, lighter and dynamic, has gained in popularity.
Common Pitfalls
Some belay devices cause so much friction with thicker ropes that if the person weighs very little; it is sometimes difficult for her either to be lowered to the ground or to rappel. Thought should be put into how the desired belay device will work with the rope that will most often be used.
With the mechanical-assist devices, people sometimes get lax about having their brake hand on the rope. On occasion, a belayer's body has been slammed into a wall and the release lever of the mechanical-assist device depressed, thereby releasing the climber to fall to the ground. It is extremely important that climbers remember to always keep a brake hand on the rope regardless of what type of device is being used.
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