Smart Shopping for Climbing Helmets

Most professional rock climbers recommend that climbers wear helmets all the time. Even while sport climbing and gym climbing there are risks. Climbers tend to fall more often while sport climbing. Thus, there's an increased likelihood that a climber can get the rope stuck behind his ankle, flip upside down and slam his head on the wall. And in the mountains, where a climber might do a long traditional route or ice climb, there's a strong chance that rock or ice will fall on them at some point during the day.

There are three basic helmet designs to choose from that lessen the shock of a head-rock collision by distributing the force more evenly. The suspension-based hard-hat helmet transfers the shock from a falling rock to an inner harness system underneath a tough nylon or plastic exterior. These helmets are heavy, and subsequently durable. However, unless perfectly fitted, they can move around causing discomfort.

A co-molded helmet utilizes a high-impact plastic outer shell (polycarbonate or fiberglass) that is molded to a closed-cell foam liner. They are lighter, more comfortable because of their closer fit, but these absorb shock by breaking, and so are only good for one big fender-bender.

Hybrids have a similar molded foam insert, but they also have hard plastic outer shells. These helmets fall in between the co-molded and suspension-based in weight and safety and are often less expensive.

What to Look for

First and foremost, find a helmet that fits closely and sits squarely on your head. The front of the helmet should cover your forehead, and the chin-strap should be snug when fastened. Also make sure the helmet adequately and easily adjusts so that you can refit it when you wear a hat or hood. The padding or suspension-system inside should exert a uniform pressure so that it moves with your head when you twist your neck from side to side.

Next, consider what type of climbing you will be doing. For long days out, a co-molded or hybrid helmet will be less cumbersome to both wear and carry in your pack. And, because of the nature of ice climbing--the constant slamming the brittle ice with ice axes--it's best to choose a tougher helmet that will withstand numerous hits.

Common Pitfalls

This is the main thing to watch out for when choosing a climbing helmet is how it fits. If the helmet does not fit correctly, it can roll back off your forehead leaving it exposed or it can fall off completely if the suspension system or chin-strap are not snug. Plus, if the chin-strap doesn't fit comfortably, it will chafe your neck all day, leaving an uncomfortable burn.

Finally, if when climbing in warmer areas, be sure to find a helmet that has lots of ventilation.

Last updated on: Nov 18, 2009

Must see: Photo Galleries

Member Comments