Climbing ropes come in various diameters, lengths and colors and are almost always dynamic (stretchy), though aid climbers use static ropes for hauling heavy bags. Made of nylon, polyester or a combo of fibers, ropes consist of a core twisted fibers and an outer sheath of woven fibers.
What to Look for
Know the diameter of the rope, which determines how much it weighs and how long it will last. Wide, beefy ropes (10.5 to 11 mm) are perfect for top roping, gym climbing or any other type of climbing where the rope will see a lot of wear, abrasion or the potential for cutting (such as over a sharp edge). Skinnier ropes (9.4 to 10.4) are lighter and offer a softer catch because they stretch more. However, they don't last as long and are more expensive.
Traditional climbers use double (or half) ropes, between 8.9 mm and 9.1 mm. Clipping ropes separately through widely spread out pieces of protection reduces rope drag. Plus, better shock-absorption decreases the impact force on individual pieces of rock or gear. Double ropes also allow a climber to do longer rappels, and the redundancy of two ropes ensures a climber's safety should a rope get cut by a sharp edge or crampon.
Alpine climbers often use "twin ropes." Between 7.6 mm and 9.1 mm, they are handy for shortening the amount of rappelling time (the ropes can be tied together rather than doubled over as with a single rope). Plus, the redundancy of two ropes reduces the danger of a rope breaking when shock loaded. However, because of their small diameter, these ropes should always be used together.
Consider buying a water-repellent "dry" (i.e. dry treated ropes) because it will retain less water and thus be strong under adverse conditions. Dry cores further reduce weight and increase durability and should be considered for people who spend a lot of time on ice or snow.
Length is also a consideration. A 60-meter rope is standard for most sport and traditional climbing areas, while many will choose the extra weight of a 70-meter rope because it allows them to do longer pitches and make quicker rappels. Finally, price doesn't necessarily indicate quality of rope these days. However, it's important to do some research because some ropes are inferior.
Common Pitfalls
Regularly check your rope for core shots--obvious tears in the sheath that reveal the core or spots where the core is weakened so much that it can be bent in half. Typically when you try to bend a rope it will maintain a strong curve.
Don't step on your rope while it's laying on the ground as that will grind dirt into the sheath. Washing your rope regularly with non-detergent soap and storing it out of the sun will ensure longevity. And retire your rope when it becomes overly "fuzzy" or at any time the core shows through (if you are unable to cut off that section).
Member Comments