Although the best climbers can pull off steep ascents in unlaced, oversize climbing shoes, regular climbers will benefit from a comfortable, well-fitted and well-performing climbing shoe. Although choosing climbing shoes is every bit as subjective as choosing other footwear -- say, for a night out on the town -- you get the ultimate veto power, because your feet will be spending a lot of time in those shoes. In a general comparison, a few models rise to the top as consistently well-rated, good performers.
Considerations
Keep in mind that no matter how great a climbing shoe you purchase, it won't do you much good unless it fits. Although some very aggressive, bouldering-style climbing shoes require a painful break-in period and may even deform your foot with extended wear, not all climbing shoes require this kind of extreme fit. Look for a climbing shoe that fits the general shape of your foot, loose enough that you can still wiggle your toes as a group but not so tight that you can wiggle them individually. If you're buying shoes with a leather upper, size down slightly, because the leather will stretch.
Evolv Elektra
The Evolv Elektra women's shoe receives consistently high ratings. Velcro straps offer easy adjustability, and the multi-purpose Elektra is sensitive enough for smearing while still allowing you to stick overhanging toeholds. Reviews indicate that this narrow, low-profile shoe is comfortable enough for all-day wear in the gym or at the crag. Note that even though this is marketed as a women's shoe, some men find that women's shoes fit their feet better.
5.10 Anasazi Velcro
A long-time favorite, the Anasazi Velcro comes in both unisex and women's models. A deep heel allows for secure heel hooks, but the Anasazi's greatest strength is its balance between stiffness and flexibility, allowing you enough sensitivity to feel what you're standing on but enough support to edge on the proverbial dime. The Anasazi is available in a lace-up model that also receives excellent ratings.
La Sportiva Mythos
An excellent all-around or beginner shoe, the Mythos also excels for climbing cracks. The combination of a thin, flat toe and relatively stiff last allows you the low-profile support you need to jam your toes into cracks. The Mythos also works well for an all-day session at the gym, and the simple lace-up design allows you to fine-tune the fit to your foot shape.
La Sportiva Solution
The Solution's aggressive, downturned toe is designed for hooking onto overhanging footholds. Particularly suited for bouldering problems, this shoe offers exceptional performance and relatively high comfort given the style. But don't expect to keep the Solution on for marathon sessions or use it to climb multi-pitch routes, as the Solution isn't built for extended wear. Point in fact, the Solution is specifically designed to retain its aggressive shape and fit over time.
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