Rock climbing, in which participants scale rock formations or artificial climbing walls, is a challenging but rewarding sport that places rigorous physical demands on its adherents. Phalangeal tendonitis -- caused by the demands of gripping small handholds -- is the medical term for tendonitis occurring in your fingers; this is a common climbing injury. MayoClinic.com notes that minor cases of tendonitis can be treated at home, but see your doctor if symptoms persist in spite of self-care or interfere with your daily activities for more than a few days.
Rock Climbing Injury Features
The repetitive, strenuous, high-torque movements required by rock climbing put climbers at risk for overuse injuries. North Wales Spine Clinic says that the cling grip, a popular technique for gaining a purchase on small handholds, can be particularly stressful for fingers and hands, with tendons particularly susceptible to injury. The website notes that 75 percent of sports climbers eventually suffer extremity overuse syndromes, most commonly in the fingers, with the PIP joint, or proximal interphalangeal joint, most vulnerable to injury. In a study conducted by L.M. Holtzhausen and T.D. Noakes and published in the July 1996 issue of the "Clinical Journal of Sports Medicine," researchers found that elbow, forearm, wrist and hand injuries account for 62 percent of all injuries to sports rock climbers.
Phalangeal Tendonitis Features
In tendonitis, the tendon that connects the muscles to the finger bones, or phalanges, becomes inflamed due to strain, overuse or sudden trauma. Acupuncture Today says that symptoms include swelling and pain often described as a dull ache that radiates into the palm. You also might experience stiffness or limited range of motion. The website adds that tendonitis can become tenosynovitis, an inflammation and thickening of the lining of the tendon sheath. This development can cause a condition known as trigger finger, in which the finger becomes "locked," sometimes releasing suddenly with a popping sound.
Phalangeal Tendonitis Treatments
Phalangeal tendonitis usually responds well to self-care. MayoClinic.com recommends using the P-R-I-C-E technique to treat tendonitis: protecting the area from further injury, resting from the activity that caused the injury, icing the area for 20 minutes every few hours, applying compression with an elastic bandage and elevating the finger to above heart level. Ohio State University notes that the affected finger is sometimes treated with a splint as well. If swelling is very pronounced, your doctor might recommend a corticosteroid injection to decrease inflammation. You can reduce pain and swelling with over-the-counter anti-inflammatory medications such as ibuprofen or aspirin as long as you have no conditions that preclude their use.
Preventing Phalangeal Tendonitis
According to North Wales Spine Clinic, phalangeal tendonitis can be prevented with active stretching of the PIP joint after every training and competition session. You also might be able to reduce the risk of injury by performing exercises to increase finger range of motion, coordination and power; the website recommends the use of plasticine, a soft, pliable plastic substance. Identifying the error in climbing style that caused the injury, developing less taxing climbing techniques and minimizing the use of the cling handhold are other tactics that can prevent tendonitis.
