To descend the treacherous Petit Dru in the French Alps in 1876, mountain guide Jean Esétril Charlet came up with a way to abseil -- or rappell -- using ropes. After several failed attempts, Charlet finally succeeded in conquering Petit Dru during an ascent in 1879. Eventually, he perfected the technique and, in the century since, thanks to improvements in equipment, rappelling has become safer, easier and faster than ever.
Rope
Rope used for rappelling is usually constructed of a multi-strand core protected by a woven sheath. It may be dynamic or static. A dynamic rope has more stretch than a static one and is typically used in climbing situations. It is designed to absorb shock if a climber falls, while also reducing the strain on the belayer and other equipment. A static rope is low-stretch and is commonly used exclusively for rappelling or in rescue situations. It is generally more durable than dynamic rope, although it will not absorb shock in case of a fall. Always purchase new rope and inspect it for damage before use.
Climbing Harness
A climbing harness secures the climber around the waist and legs. It should be well-built, fit properly and be comfortable. A good climbing harness will have a belay loop featuring double-thickness webbing with multiple bar tacks.
Descender
A descender allows rope to be "paid out" in a controlled manner while under load. The descender allows the climber to control the speed of the descent by increasing or decreasing the amount of friction that is applied to the rope. Mechanical devices include the figure eight, braking bars or abseil rack. Improvised devices can also be made by tying certain types of knots.
Prusik Loop
A Prusik loop attaches below the descender and is connected to the leg loop of the harness. The Prusik look is held in your braking hand and slid along the rope while you rappel as a safety backup brake.
Carabiners
Manual-locking carabiners attach to anchor points, while an automatic-locking carabiner is used to attach your climbing device to your harness. Always point the lock on manual-lock carabiners in the direction of the load so that gravity pulls toward the locking mechanism -- "always screw down so you don't screw up."
Other Equipment
Other equipment you should always have on hand when rappelling includes a rope bag to contain your rope; tubular webbing to create a backup safety line in case your anchor points fail; and a rope edge guard to protect and preserve the life of your rope. A helmet will protect your head fromslamming into a rock wall or from falling debris, while gloves will save your hands from rope burns. You should also wear sturdy boots or shoes while rappelling.
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