Hermann Buhl, the legendary high-altitude mountain climber, once remarked that "mountains have a way of dealing with overconfidence." Those who attempt to scale the highest peaks without taking proper precautions quickly learn the truth to this anecdote. The Center for Disease Control travel page lists cold temperatures, increased ultraviolet radiation, low humidity and decreased air pressure as possible risks of high-altitude. Traveling at high altitudes can be hazardous; preparation and acclimatization will help to minimize these risks.
Defining High Altitude
The "Outdoor Action Guide to High Altitude' defines high altitude as 8,000 to12,000 feet, very high altitude as 12,000 to 18,000 feet and extremely high altitude as any peak higher than 18,000 feet. People without pre-existing health conditions can usually travel safely to 8,000 feet without any risk to their health.
Acclimatization
The human body requires three to five days at 8,000 to 9,000 feet before ascending higher on the mountain. The Outdoor Action Guide suggests one to three days as optimal. Base your decision on your current fitness level and place of residence. A person living at 5280 feet in Denver, who stays in shape by running up the steps of the Red Rocks outdoor amphitheater will find it easier to acclimate than a Floridian who takes a daily stroll on the beach. Once you reach your destination, limit your ascents to 1,000 feet each day.
Sleep Low
Multi-day climbers that want to climb more than 1,000 feet each day adhere to the "climb high, sleep low" motto: Descend a few hundred feet each night to sleep at a lower altitude. Doing so will improve your sleep patterns, enabling you to climb higher each day. It may take longer to reach the summit, but you will avoid the serious health risks associated with high altitude climbing.
Drink Water, Not Alcohol
Alcoholic drinks amplify the effects of high altitude. Avoid alcoholic beverages for at least the first 48 hours of your trip. High alpine environments are dehydrating, and alcoholic beverages contribute to dehydration. Carry a water bottle and maintain adequate hydration -- fluid loss and dehydration inhibits acclimatization.
Weather Preparation
Protect your skin with sunscreen, and your eyes with UV goggles or sunglasses. Consult with the weather bureau prior to your climb, and be aware of what weather changes look like. Prepare for the worst -- temperatures may drop radically as you ascend, so carry warmer clothes and extra pairs of socks.
Winter Climbing
Avalanches are a winter climbing risk. Carry an avalanche transceiver, a small device that transmits and receives radio signals from another transceiver, as well as a shovel and an avalanche probe. Prevent the need to use them by taking an avalanche safety course, and learn how to read the snow conditions that may cause a slide.
References
- Center For Disease Control and Prevention: Altitude Illness Peter H. Hackett, David R. Shlim
- Princeton.edu: Outdoor Action Guide to High Altitude: Acclimatization and Illnesses by Rick Curtis, Director, Outdoor Action Program
- American Heart Association: High-Altitude Sickness
- MountainZone.com: This is Your Brain in the Backcountry And Other Critical Avalanche Safety Gear
