The right pair of rock climbing shoes on your feet is more than about comfort; it's also a matter of safety and performance. What constitutes the best rock climbing shoes is a combination of factors involving the shoe material, shape and closure system, all informed by the specific type of rock climbing for which you plan to put them to use. The most important factor to consider in choosing the best rock climbing shoes for your needs, in fact, is the type of rock climbing you are planning on doing while wearing them: bouldering, gym climbing, steep face climbing or crack climbing. Each of these different types of rock climbing has its own set of ideal shoe criteria.
Bouldering And Gym-Climbing
A thin sole and a soft midsole are best for bouldering and gym-climbing, allowing you to feel the contours beneath your feet. The fit should be snug, even so far as to possibly curl the toe a bit down a bit, which helps with getting a foothold on thin edges. An asymmetrical toe box can also be helpful, by driving extra power to the big toe. If there's any overhanging in the route, consider a shoe with a downturned toes, or cambered sole. Hook and loop enclosures are helpful in maintaining the necessarily snug fit of this kind of shoe, and are conveniently easy to put on and take off. Shoes of a synthetic material are best for bouldering and gym-climbing because they retain their tight shape.
Steep Face Rock Climbing
For the steepest inclines, you don't want any crimping in the toes, although if you're looking to have only one pair of shoes for several different kinds of rock climbing, a slight curl is fine. The fit should be medium snug, not too snug and not too relaxed. Likewise you want a middle-of-the-road midsole that's not too flexible and not too stiff, giving you the most versatility in the range of climbing techniques you have supported. A relaxed heel is helpful in mediating between these extremes. A pointy toe is helpful in climbing routes with many pockets.
Crack climbing
The best shoes for crack climbing and most so-called "trad shoes," or traditional rock climbing shoes, should be hard and narrow. The midsole should be stiff and the toes flat. The best crack climbing shoe is a sturdy shoe with not a lot of give. This is because any curling knuckles will rub right on the rock. The flat toes will help you get a firm footing in slender cracks. A symmetrical toe box helps maintain comfort. Many trad shoes also have padded heels to keep you comfortable if any hiking is in order too. Crack climbing shoes are often made of leather to allow for a bit of stretching over time, providing increased comfort as you sculpt them over the rocks.
Women And Kids
Women and kids should look for rock climbing shoes designed specifically for them. Regular rock climbing shoes, even properly sized, may not have the right kind of fit the unique shapes of women and children's feet exhibit. Women's rock climbing shoes tend to have a wider toe box, a lower ankle cuff and a narrower heel cup. For kids, it's OK to size the shoes one size larger. This allows them to start out with greater comfort and gradually get used to the stiffness of a good rock climbing shoe as they grow into it and experience increasingly more advanced and demanding routes.
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