How Tight Should Rock Climbing Harness Leg Loops Be?

How Tight Should Rock Climbing Harness Leg Loops Be?
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Rock climbing is one of those deceptively low-injury sports. Although the margin for error is frighteningly narrow, it's hard to get hurt if you observe smart safety practices and work with equipment that's in good shape and properly installed. This begins with the fit and quality of your climbing harness.

Harness Structure

A rock climbing harness consists of three loops attached by a set of straps. The loops include one for each thigh, and one for your waist. A reinforced loop protrudes from the front of the hip, where you tie the harness to your climbing rope. If you fall, the harness keeps you attached to the rope and the rock wall. However, the tumbling you sustain during the fall might put you momentarily upside down. Without a proper harness fit, you could fall directly out of the harness.

Thigh Tightness

The thigh loops are primarily responsible for holding you upright and giving you a comfortable place to sit while resting or belaying a partner. If too tight, they will cut circulation to your legs. If too loose, they won't do their job properly. Test your thigh loops by attempting to pinch along their length at the top of your thigh. If you can fold it between your thumb and forefinger, it's too loose. If you can get no traction at all, it's too tight.

Waist Tightness

The waist loop keeps you in the harness if you tumble during a fall. If it's not tight enough, the harness does no good at all. If too tight, you risk discomfort and even damage to your internal organs during a fall. Test your waist loop by inserting a finger between the belt and your stomach. If you can't get your index or middle finger in without sucking in your stomach, it's tight enough. If you can't do it even after sucking in your stomach, it's too tight.

Doubling Back

The straps on your loops will jostle while you climb, and may loosen or even come undone. For this reason, it's important to "double back" your straps on all three loops. Do this by tightening the loop to your desired fit, then passing the end of the loop back through the buckle for that loop. Most climbing harnesses have buckles designed specifically with this practice in mind.

References

Article reviewed by Bryn Bellamy Last updated on: Jun 14, 2011

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