As your climbs get steeper and the holds smaller, you need to develop your finger strength so that you can hang onto holds longer, says Malcolm Creasey in "The Complete Rock Climber." Progressively increasing the intensity of your climbing training program will help improve your overall strength, but to build isolated finger-specific strength, it might be beneficial to make use of a finger-strengthening device.
Power Putty
Power Putty is composed of silicone rubber that can be squeezed, pinched, stretched and pulled to exercise the muscles of the fingers and hands as well as the wrist and forearm. According to the manufacturer's website, it also is beneficial for injury rehabilitation.
Gripmaster
This pocket-size hand held device comprises five individual spring-loaded buttons that can be squeezed by each finger. Suitable for right and left hand use, the Gripmaster features an ergonomic palm bar for comfort and is available in three models with different tension settings to cater to your specific strength level.
Metolius Grip Saver Plus
Designed by Dr. Terry Zachary, this resistance-training device strengthens and balances the muscles of the hand, wrist and forearm through a full, natural range of motion. Begin by holding the ball in your hand and securing the rubber rings to your fingers. Squeeze the ball, then open your hand and stretch your fingers outward against the resistance bands.
Metolius Project Training Board
The Project Training Board is a solid board made from a mixture of epoxy, fiberglass and fine silica sand for texture and friction. It comprises an assortment of holds of different depths and sizes that permit you to train at increasing intensities, and can be mounted above a door frame for you to hang from. According to Metolius, this device allows you to gauge your progress far more effectively than climbing on a gym wall.
Warning
When following a finger strength training program, it might take a long time to notice results. Moreover, excessive training might lead to injuries that can take considerably long to heal, according to "Advanced Rock Climbing." Therefore, ensure that you adopt a systematic approach to your training and begin new programs with caution.
Considerations
Although necessary, finger strength itself is insufficient for hard climbing. Good footwork and refined technique are vital and developed only through many hours of rock climbing. As such, do not rely on finger strengtheners as a substitute for climbing at the gym or crag; rather, utilize them as complementary tools to your training program.
References
- "The Complete Rock Climber"; Malcolm Creasey; 2006
- Power Putty
- Gripmaster
- Rock Climbing: Grip Saver Plus
- Metolius Climbing: Project Training Board
- Metolius Climbing: Training Guide



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