When you first climbed a hanging rope in gym class, you may have tried to haul yourself up hand-over-hand -- a very tiring way of ascending any rope. Rock climbers, cavers and tree climbers have developed a variety of techniques that allow them to scale fixed, static ropes more efficiently. The "sit-stand" system of rope climbing can apply to a number of different rigging techniques, all of which let you use leg power instead of upper-body power to ascend the rope.
Basic Equipment and Rigging
The Internet -- and climbing and caving haunts -- are full of ongoing debate about which rigging for a sit-stand rope climb is best. The most basic method requires two ascenders, devices that slide freely when moved up the rope but clamp down on the rope when weighted. You'll also need slings, aiders or daisy chains to create two footloops, hanging from the lower ascender placed on the rope. The upper-most ascender is tethered to your climbing harness by another sling, and you might want a chest harness to help keep yourself balanced.
Safety and Disclaimer
Rock climbing, tree climbing and caving are all dangerous pursuits; a small error in technique or judgement could cost you your life. Always have a more experienced friend or teacher double-check your technique and rigging until you're sure you've mastered it.
Once of the best ways to protect yourself is by having at least two points of connection to the rope you're ascending at all times. Consider also clipping the lower ascender to your harness or wrapping a friction hitch, such as a prussik, around the rope and attaching this to your harness as additional backup.
Basic Technique
To perform the basic sit-stand technique, place one foot in each of the foot loops. Stand up in the loops and move the upper ascender as far as possible up the rope, and adjust the length of the sling connecting you to it so that you can still reach the ascender when hanging from it. Sit back in your harness, weighting the upper ascender, then bend your legs and unweight the leg loops attached to the lower ascender. This allows you to move the lower ascender up the rope.
Stand up in the newly elevated foot loops, unweighting the upper ascender; move it farther up the rope and "sit" again in preparation for your next step. When you first start off, having the rope tensioned by a friend on the ground, or tying the bottom end to something heavy enough to pull the rope taut, makes moving the lower ascender up easier.
Variations
You'll find an almost endless train of variations on this climbing style. For example, the "frog" system positions you with the lower ascender close against your chest; the lack of play in the system means the ascender automatically moves up the rope with you, so you only have to shift the upper ascender -- which anchors the foot loops in this rigging version -- up the rope as you go.
Practice
Before you try this technique on a giant sequoia or a big wall, try it in a controlled situations -- a climbing gym or close to the ground on a safely fixed rope. Use static rope to reduce bouncing and rope stretch, both of which are potential safety hazards, as you climb. Always use your best judgement about how to position the rope and your equipment.
Remember, climbing outside is an uncontrolled environment and there are a number of ways your rope could be weakened or cut. You could also accidentally unclip your ascenders from the rope if you place them under diagonal tension or push the release trigger. Your life is, literally, on the line.
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