Saffron, the spice that flavors Spanish paella, is the red stamens of a wild crocus native to the Mediterranean region. It takes about 150 crocus flowers, hand harvested, to produce a gram of saffron. At the time of publication, an ounce of Spanish saffron retailed for more than $100 -- hence its reputation as the "world's most expensive spice." Saffron may have arrived in England via the Romans, whose empire included what is now Britain from 55 B.C. to about 410.
Saffron Bread
Philosopher Sir Francis Bacon observed circa 1600 that saffron "maketh the English sprightly." The English use saffron to flavor and confer a rich yellow color to braided yeast breads, cakes, cookies and shortbread-type biscuits, often in association with Christmas and Easter. There seems to be no one "authentic" English saffron bread, although recipes from Essex, a county south of London, may come closest because this was a principal saffron growing region until the 1800s. A town in Essex pays homage to the spice in its name, Saffron Walden.
Cornish Rolls
Bakers in the Cornwall region, origin of the meat-filled Cornish pasties miners carried deep into the earth, used saffron in yeast-leavened buns traditionally topped with a knob. Nancy Baggett, author of "Kneadlessly Simple: Fabulous, Fuss-Free, No-Knead Breads," includes a recipe for Cornish Saffron Bread that uses a sweet dough enriched with milk powder, butter, and eggs and punctuated with bits of saffron thread, golden raisins and lemon zest, baked in a fluted cake pan.
Saffron Toasts
An unusual treatment of bread with saffron appears in "The Medieval Kitchen: Recipes from France and Italy." The authors include an English variation on a French toast-like preparation that in its original form is distinguished by its use of saffron, rose water, sieved egg yolks and clarified butter. They simplify the recipe for modern cooks with the use of whole eggs and regular butter, but the essential step remains the same: sprinkle the finished toast with a saffron/water decoction. Hardly a breakfast food, this saffron-flavored toast in earlier times would instead have accompanied game birds or other meat.
Saffron Use and Storage
Spanish saffron has a reputation for top quality, although it's possible saffron labeled as having come from Spain was actually grown in and imported from Iran. To use saffron in any yeast bread recipe, simply steep several strands in whatever warm liquid the recipe specifies before combining it with the yeast and dry ingredients. Store saffron threads in a tightly covered container away from light and heat.
References
- "The Essence of Herbs: An Environmental Guide to Herb Gardening"; Ruth D. Wrensch; 1992
- SlashFood.com; The World's Most Expensive Spice: Iranian Sargol Saffron; Max Shrem; July 30, 2008
- "The Medieval Kitchen: Recipes from France and Italy"; Odile Redon et al.; 2000
- Britannia: The Roman Period
- Calliari's Bakery: Saffron
- "Kneadlessly Simple: Fabulous, Fuss-Free, No-Knead Breads"; Nancy Baggett; 2009
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