The claims of hair vitamin marketing are sensational and optimistic, but pinning down the science behind them is difficult. While it's true vitamin deficiencies can present themselves in unhealthy hair growth patterns, only a doctor can tell you whether you have a true vitamin deficiency. Taking excessive vitamins may be self-medicating for the wrong problem. African American hair experts, buoyed by science, suggest that biotin, as well as vitamins A and D may help with your hair. However, in many cases, black hair growth is really not the problem. Stopping hair loss may be more at issue.
The Hair Growth Process
All hair is made up of the same chemical components --- namely a protein called keratin --- and undergoes a growth-rest-loss cycle. According to the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery, you experience a growth phase called anagen, followed by a transitional catagen phase in which hair follicles degrade. Finally, in the telogen phase, the follicle rests. Telogen hairs shed just as the next anagen phase begins. You'll see them coming out as you groom, shampoo and style your hair. The society reports on average 50 to 100 telogen hairs shed daily, and usually no more than 10 percent of your hair in this phase at a given time. However, a small study by L'Oreal comparing an African sample to Caucasians found that black people had significantly lower density in hair, a shorter growth period and a higher percentage of telogen hairs.
Hair Growth and African Americans
According to Proctor & Gamble's "The World of Hair," genetics determine how long the anagen phase lasts. Gender and individual differences, such as environment, health and medications, also play a role. But for most people, it lasts between three and seven years. Self-proclaimed black hair growth guru and author of "Ultra Black Hair Growth II" Cathy Howse says hair growth for African Americans is about maintaining length, or the hair shafts. This means black hair growth is somewhat more dependent upon maintaining the hairs that grow and mitigating loss through styling and care practices. She says some dietary supplements help with hair health, although hair vitamins aren't among her recommendations.
Biotin and the B Vitamin Complex
The B complex of vitamins helps to metabolize protein and are a requirement for hair health. The University of Maryland Medical Center reports that supplementing with one of the B vitamins, biotin, particularly helps improve thin, splitting and brittle hair. Biotin is needed for healthy hair growth and works to prevent baldness and maintain color. In fact, biotin deficiency often shows up as hair loss. Note, the Linus Pauling Institute reports that biotin deficiencies are rare. If you are truly suffering a hair disorder, your doctor can refer you to a specialist who can treat it. Typically treatment involves medications and hair grooming interventions, rather than vitamins.
Vitamins A & D
Vitamin A is actually a group of compounds with numerous features. A report by the Huntington College of Health Sciences said vitamin A protects your hair follicles from free radical damage. When you have a deficiency in vitamin A, it often shows up as dry, brittle hair. However, taking excessive amounts of vitamin A can sabotage your hair growth efforts. The college reports that if you take more than 50,000 IU --- roughly 15,000 mcg --- you could wind up losing hair. A report in the February 2010 "Dermatology Online Journal" said that although more study is needed, vitamin D appears to play an important role in the growth phase of hair.
Minerals: Iron and Zinc
Howse says rather than vitamins, she recommends iron and zinc, which are minerals. She says iron helps enrich the flow of blood to the follicle. The recommendation has a basis in science. A report in the May 2006 "Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology," for example said hair loss can be a result of an iron deficiency. The authors, Cleveland Clinic practitioners said they routinely test the iron levels of people who come with hair loss disorders. They suggest that hair regrowth treatment may be enhanced with iron supplementation. The zinc recommendation is also echoed by the University of Maryland Medical Center. The center says when combined with biotin, zinc helps treat alopecia, partial or complete loss of hair, in children and adults.
References
- International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery: Hair Loss and The Hair Growth Cycle
- "British Journal of Dermatology"; African Hair Growth Parameters; G. Loussouarn; Aug. 2001
- P&G Beauty & Grooming "The World of Hair"; The Hair Growth Cycle
- "Ultra Black Hair Growth II"; Cathy Howse; 2000
- Ultimate Black Hair Publications: Hair Vitamins: Are They Really Needed?
- "Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology"; The Diagnosis and Treatment of Iron Deficiency and Its Potential Relationship to Hair Loss; Leonid Benjamin Trost et al.; May 2006



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