With their steep, moderate routes and tightly bolted face pitches, the Aztec sandstone walls of Red Rocks, Nevada, gives climbers high adventure without the run outs so common in other climbing regions, says Greg Barnes in "Red Rocks Climbing." In addition, with the development of hundreds of sport routes on the limestone cliffs in the area, climbers have the opportunity to frequent less-crowded crags at higher elevations.
History
In the 1970s, Joe Herbst pioneered many free and aided first ascents, thus attracting much attention to the area, but it was not until the late 1970s that sport climbing took root at Red Rocks, when local climbers George and Joanne Urioste bolted numerous lines in the area, having utilized Joe Herbst's notebook as a reference. It has since become a prime sport climbing destination for climbers from across the globe.
Climbing Difficulty
Rock features in Red Rocks include smooth edges, in-cut holds, cracks, faces and chimneys. Many routes are of an easier grade and therefore suitable if you are a beginner climber, but there are difficult routes for the experienced climber too, according to "Red Rock Canyon." Calico Hills and Sandstone Quarry are popular areas for sport climbers.
Safety
Owing to the efforts of the American Safe Climbing Association, numerous key anchors and approximately 500 bolts have been replaced on both popular and classic routes; however, in spite of these safer climbing conditions, rope problems are a common occurrence, as the rock tends to snag rope. Ensure a safe retreat on a multi-pitch route by trailing a second dynamic rope if you are leading, or have your follower carry one up in a backpack.
When to Climb
The best seasons to climb at Red Rocks are fall and spring; winter is too cold. Monitor the weather, though, as cold or hot spells can occur throughout the year. From June to August it is extremely hot, thus restricting climbing to only the lower, shadier canyons and the highest peaks.
Warning
If you are new to climbing on sandstone, climb easier routes to get used to the fragile rock. Do not climb a day or two after rain, as the rock is particularly unstable when wet. Above all, bear in mind that rock climbing is an inherently dangerous sport that might result in injury or death, according to "Advanced Rock Climbing." Do not attempt climbing without undergoing comprehensive training from a qualified instructor.
References
- "Red Rock Climbing: Supertopos"; Greg Barnes; 2004
- "Red Rocks Sport Climbing Guide"; Jared McMillen; 2003
- "How to Rock Climb: Advanced Rock Climbing"; John Long, et al.; 1997
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