There's a plethora of topical vitamin C creams and products being sold in the market today, highly touted for their antioxidant and anti-aging benefits. There are considerations for whether they work as promised, and what someone should look for when searching for products to obtain the most benefit and to have the desired visible impact.
The Science
A double blind half-face study that compared topical vitamin C to a placebo, to see if vitamin C could stimulate the skin to repair photodamage, and whether the results would be visible appeared in a March 2002 edition of "Dermatologic Surgery.". After 12 weeks, researchers Richard E. Fitzpatrick and Elizabeth F. Rostan found that there were statistically significant decreases in photoaging on the side of the face treated with vitamin C, that hydration had actually improved on both sides of the face, and that there were clinically visible improvements in wrinkling.
Usage Recommendations
Topical vitamin C can be a powerful source for the production of collagen, for the skin to repair and renew itself. It is also a potent antioxidant, to protect against UV rays, skin cancer and to fight free radical damage.
When searching for a product it is important to note that not all are created equal. Christine Dreher, nutritionist, herbalist and author, indicates that to have the most anti-aging effect, the product should contain at least 10 percent L-ascorbic acid, with a pH level of less than 3.5. Applying the product in the morning, on a daily basis, will result in the most benefit.
Side Effects
Topical vitamin C products may cause skin burning or irritation for some people so your should exercise care when applying the product, especially if you have sensitive skin.
The American Academy of Dermatology notes that ingredients known to cause stinging on your face include vitamin C.
Monitor your skin's reaction closely and discontinue or reduce use if needed.
Cost
When purchasing vitamin C topical products carefully review the list of ingredients. Nonprescription cosmetic products are not required to undergo U.S. Food and Drug Administration approval for efficacy.
Dr. William P. Coleman III, the vice president of the American Academy of Dermatology, has indicated that face creams should be viewed as no more than superficial products. He states ''A $200 cream may have better perfume or packaging, but as far as it moisturizing your skin better than a $10 cream, it probably won't.'' So, before plunking down your hard-earned cash on the next miracle product, consider whether a less expensive product will do the trick just as well.
References
- "Dermatologic Surgery"; Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage; Richard Fitzpatrick, et al.; March 2002
- Transform your Health.com; C Serum for Skin Health; Christine Dreher
- American Academy of Dermatology: Sensitive Skin
- Skin Deep; The Cosmetics Restriction Diet -- The New York Times, 2007.
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