Bleach: The word itself demands to be taken seriously. That's true when it's about your clothes. But pair that word with "hair" and all the implied respect is certainly due. What that means in simple terms is proceed with caution. If you're not a licensed cosmetologist--and even if you are--be very careful when buying and using bleaching products for hair. Although it may masquerade as a "blonding" or "lifting" agent or one step in a "two-step coloring" process, its main ingredient will be peroxide and it will perform like bleach. Its purpose is to strip all of the color from your hair.
That may be what you want. So with all the bewares behind us, let's assume your goal is to take the color out of your hair.
What to Look for
There are two main reasons for bleaching--you want very light highlights and plan to use a one-step, bleach-only process to achieve that look or you plan to make a dramatic change--to go from dark to light or light to dark.
What stripping, or bleaching, will do in a dramatic color change is allow you to start with the hair equivalent of a blank canvas. Whatever color you apply after stripping will not be affected by your natural color or any other color you previously used. It will be more predictable than trying to gauge what color you'll be sporting when the new and the old are mixed.
What's a dramatic change in color? Conventional terms among colorists for describing hues have number values to help determine whether you're changing the color by four values or more, which is what defines a "dramatic" change: 1) black, 2) very dark brown, 3) dark brown, 4) brown, 5) medium brown, 6) light brown, 7) dark blond, 8) light blond, 9) very light blond, 10) platinum blond. Find the number that corresponds to your current shade. If the level you want is four away from that, you'll need to bleach or strip before you color.
If you want very light highlights, one option is to choose a blonding bleach to simply take out color rather than replace it with another. This will work best on shades of blond hair.
Common Pitfalls
Whether you're going for a full head of color or simply highlights, if you use bleach you'll likely notice a change in texture in the treated hair. Bleaches are drying, so be vigilant about conditioning your hair, combing and brushing it carefully to avoid breakage and seek professional help if the damage is cumulative or severe.
If your hair has split ends or isn't completely healthy when you use a bleaching agent, leave the chemical treatment on for slightly less than the recommended time. Porous, chemically treated hair (including permed) will strip and color more quickly than healthy hair. Thin locks will strip and color more quickly than thicker manes.
Before beginning any treatment, do the strand test if the product instructions call for one; there's no substitute for seeing first-hand exactly how the product is going to react with your hair. Get help with the back of your head, for obvious reasons. If your hair is shoulder length or longer, consider buying two boxes or kits. Watch the time carefully. When your coloring work is done, remember to condition and be careful with blow dryers and other hair appliances that use heat.
Member Comments