Rock climbing is a physically and mentally demanding pastime and sport. Using virtually every muscle in the body, climbers must be fit, strong, powerful and possess high levels of muscular endurance while trying to remain as light as possible. Conditioning is an important part of climbing -- especially when attempting long, steep or overhanging climbs.
Pullups
Pullups are a cornerstone exercise in climbing conditioning training. Pullups develop your major upper body climbing muscles; specifically your latissimus dorsi and biceps brachii. As well as performing pullups from a regular gym bar, climbers often perform this exercise using a finger board to simulate pulling up on rock handholds. Some advanced climbers progress to performing pullups with only one hand. To get the most from this exercise, perform pullups using a variety of hand positions including wide, narrow, overhand and underhand.
Dead Hangs
Climbing long or steep routes places a lot of stress on your hands and forearm muscles. Repeated and prolonged gripping creates a significant build up of lactic acid in the forearm muscles, which will cause your grip to weaken and eventually fail. This is called getting pumped. To train your gripping muscles, perform dead hangs. Grasp an overhead bar or beam and then hang with extended arms. Make sure your feet are clear of the floor. Hold on for as long as you can before dropping off the bar. Rest a moment and then repeat. Strive to hang on for progressively longer periods of time to improve your resistance to getting pumped.
Low-Level Traversing
Traversing is a form of climbing that involves going horizontally as opposed to vertically. Climbing long routes to the point where you are so fatigued you fall off the rock face is dangerous, but traversing can be performed just a couple of feet off the ground. This means that you can work as hard as you like with no need to worry about falling. Traversing can be done at a suitably long rock crag or at an indoor climbing wall. Although traversing is safe, be aware of what is going on above you and do not traverse under any other climbers. Traverse for progressively longer periods of time or a set number of repeats of a predetermined length such as 10 yards.
Rowing
Rowing involves many of the muscles used in climbing and can help develop your climbing endurance and cardiovascular fitness. Short, fast periods of rowing will develop your anaerobic fitness, and longer, more sedate periods of rowing will improve your aerobic fitness -- both essential for successful climbing. Rowing is a straightforward exercise but poor technique can result in injury. Make sure you do not round your lower back when you row and try to use your legs as much as possible. Drive hard with the legs, and then use your arms to maintain your momentum. Rowing can be performed indoors using a rowing machine or out on the water in a boat. Both types of rowing are excellent forms of exercise.
References
- "Anatomy of Exercise: A Trainer's Inside Guide to Your Workout"; Pat Manocchia; 2009
- "Conditioning for Climbers: The Complete Exercise Guide"; Eric J. Horst; 2008
- "Conditioning for Outdoor Fitness"; David Musnick et al.; 2004
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