Smoking is used to preserve and flavor foods all over the world. In the West, hardwoods, especially nut and fruit woods, are commonly used as the source of smoke. In Asia, where wood is relatively scarce and correspondingly valuable, tea is often used instead. The process is similar to smoking with wood chips, but the end result is intriguingly different. Restaurants often use the tea-smoking technique for whole ducks or duck breasts.
Brining the Bird
The first step in smoking a duck or other poultry is brining it, or soaking it in a solution of water, and salt. Sugar and other seasonings can be added. Brine helps preserve the flesh, but it's primarily done for flavor. The salt and sugar draw moisture from the bird, mixing it with the flavors of the brine. The duck's flesh then absorbs those flavors back into the meat by osmosis. Juniper berries, rice wine, fresh sage, lemongrass and thyme all add agreeable flavors to duck. Brine the duck for eight to twelve hours for the best flavor.
Preparing the Bird
Remove the duck from its brine and allow it to drain thoroughly on a thick pad of clean paper towels. Pat the duck dry inside and out with more paper towels, then place it uncovered in your refrigerator for another 12 hours or overnight. This step is optional, but it dries out the duck's skin and helps it absorb the smoke flavor more readily. It also will cook to a crisper texture.
Preparing the Smoker
Unless you have a standalone smoker, the simplest way to smoke the duck is with two disposable roasting pans and a wire rack. In the bottom of the roaster, combine a half-cup of black or oolong tea with a tablespoon of Szechuan peppercorns and a pair of cinnamon sticks or a tablespoon of cassia buds. Fresh or dried orange zest is optional, but it will add a pleasant flavor. Make balls of aluminum foil and rest the wire rack on top of them to raise the duck at least 2 inches above the smoke.
Smoking the Duck
Place the duck on the wire rack. Cut a few fine slashes in the skin over the breasts to help the fat render out. Cover the duck with a second disposable roaster, folding the edges of the roasters together to seal the seam. Slow-roast the duck at 275 F until it reaches an internal temperature of 165 F when tested with a meat thermometer, 1 1/2 to 2 hours depending on the size of the duck. If you wish, crisp the skin before serving the bird by running it under the broiler for a minute or two.
References
- Garde Manger: The Art and Craft of the Cold Kitchen: Culinary Institute of America
- Professional Cooking: Wayne Gisslen
