Pork shoulder refers to either of two basic cuts from the pig. The upper shoulder, also called the shoulder butt, includes shoulder roasts and blade steaks. Farther down the front leg is the picnic shoulder, which includes picnic roasts and smoked arm roasts. Whether a roast comes from the upper or lower shoulder, it should meet some fundamental criteria for quality.
Portions
Because of the shape of the basic cut, pork shoulder roasts from higher on the leg have a larger proportion of meat to fat than picnic roasts or arm roasts. The U.S. Department of Agriculture describes a single serving as a 3-ounce portion. With more edible meat per ounce, a boneless shoulder roast provides about three to four cooked servings per uncooked pound of meat. Bone-in cuts from any portion of the shoulder equate to two or three cooked servings of pork. Select a larger shoulder roast if you plan to serve it with fewer side dishes; choose a smaller roast if you intend to fill the plate with accompanying sides.
From the Butcher
Buying your shoulder roast from the butcher's counter lets you examine the meat on all sides. Look for a pale pink color and firm flesh. Fresh pork should have no discernible smell. Shoulder cuts typically have a thicker layer of fat on one side, but that layer should not be more than an inch thick. If you plan to roast the pork slowly at a low temperature, leave this layer intact to keep the lean roast moist during cooking, then strip it away after roasting. Otherwise, ask the butcher to remove it for you.
Packaged Pork Roast
A packaged pork roast is sealed too well to allow you to examine it fully or give it a sniff test. However, its color is still a good indicator of quality; pale to rich pink indicates fresher pork, while brownish hues suggest an older cut unless the meat is pre-coated with a spice rub or marinade. Look for smooth edges on cut surfaces. Neat cuts are an indication of careful handling and firm flesh.
Cooking Method
A 3-ounce serving of roasted pork shoulder contains about 5 to 7 grams of fat, depending on the diner's preferences and the cook's roasting method. For leaner pork, roast the meat in a roasting pan with a rack that holds the shoulder above the rendered fat. The thick layer of fat adds flavor and protects the lean meat from the oven's drying heat, but remove it before serving for a leaner meal. Slow cooking allows more fat to leave the meat while leaving it tender. Uncovered oven roasting produces leaner servings of pork shoulder than pot roasting.
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