Cleaning
Shampoos clean hair by using detergents that are surfactants. Surfactants in shampoos are made up of a mixture of oil- and water-soluble solutions. Once introduced to the hair, the hydrophobic oil-soluble molecules collect with the oil and soiled particles, while the hydrophilic water-soluble molecules gather around the outside of the oil-soluble molecules. This forms little globes called micelles which separate from the hair so that the grime contained in them can be rinsed out.
Modifying
Along with cleaning agents, a shampoo also has a number of modifying agents that help with the cleaning process. For example, many shampoos have foam boosters. This increases the amount of lathering foam that can be produced once the product is placed on the hair. Shampoos also have thickening agents (such as xanthan gum) that give shampoo a more gel-like structure that is easier to apply to the hair. Panthenol may also be used as a modifying agent to help strengthen the shafts of the hair.
PH Balance
Another important additive to shampoos are pH adjusters. As hair rubs together on your head, a static electric charge can build. This can lead to frizzy and out-of-control hair. Most shampoos employ pH adjusters (such as citric acid) which help coat and smooth down the hair.
Hydration
Hair has a natural tendency to dry out as it goes through its growing and shedding cycle. Shampoos use humectants, such as glycerin or sorbitol, to help keep moisture in, as well as help draw moisture from the air to keep the hair strands from drying out.
Scent
Scent does not necessarily affect how well a shampoo works, but does affect the experience of shampooing. Some additives to shampoo can put off an unpleasant smell. To hide this scent, as well as to sell the product to different target markets, shampoo manufacturers employ a variety of scents. Some scent-producing additives serve a double purpose and also provide additional benefits to the hair and scalp, such as tea tree oil and mint.
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