How Hair Relaxers Work

Use

A hair relaxer is a product that makes the hair less curly. This process is formally known as lanthionization and may be performed at home or by a cosmetologist. The hair relaxer should be applied close to the scalp for the specific period of time indicated by the instructions. The hair relaxer will alter the structure of the protein in the hair, causing the hair to straighten. This process also damages the hair, and the excessive use of hair relaxers can cause the hair to break or even fall out. The hair should be shampooed as soon as the hair relaxer is rinsed out. Hair relaxers are alkaline, and the shampoo will help neutralize the hair. Shampoo will also replace some of the oil that the hair relaxer removes.

Lye Relaxers

Lye relaxers contain a 5 to 10 percent solution of sodium hydroxide (NaOH) as the active ingredient. These products also contain emulsifiers, mineral oil, petroleum jelly and water to give the hair relaxer a creamy consistency. A lye relaxer weakens the internal bonds of the protein in the water, causing hair fiber to swell open. This type of hair relaxer is simply applied and rinsed out after the appropriate time interval. A "base" lye relaxer is a stronger solution of sodium hydroxide and requires a coating of petroleum jelly on the scalp to prevent it from burned by the hair relaxer. A "no base" lye relaxer is a weaker solution and doesn't generally require the scalp to be protected.

"No Lye" Relaxers

A "no lye" hair relaxer uses an alkaline agent other than sodium hydroxide to straighten hair. This may be an alkaline agent that's slightly weaker than sodium hydroxide, such as guanidine hydroxide, lithium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. A home hair may also use ammonium sulfite, which weakens the protein structure more selectively than a lye relaxer. This type of hair relaxer primarily weakens cystine bonds, which is a protein that's more common in hair than skin.

References

Article reviewed by David Lee Last updated on: Dec 28, 2009

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