While the word "perm" evokes thoughts of curly hair, the truth is there are a number of perms available that affect hair structure in different ways. In its most basic form, a perm, or permanent wave, uses chemical to break down the hair's chemical bonds, which make the hair naturally straight, wavy, curly, etc. Then, the hair is restructured into the desired appearance.
Broken Cystine and Sulphur Bonds
The hair is composed of keratin, which at its most basic form is a protein structure that features many bonds to give hair its strength and ability to move. When permanent lotion is applied to straight hair, using a permanent wave method, the cystine and sulphur bonds of the hair are broken.
To accomplish a wavy effect, a stylist first wraps the hair around curlers or rods. For a loose, wavy effect, the hair is wrapped around large rollers. For tighter curls, the hair is wrapped around rollers that are smaller in diameter. Then, the stylist applies thioglycolic acid and ammonia. This affects the hair structure by releasing the cystine and sulphur bonds from being straight.
Rebuilt Bonds = Curlier Hair
During a perm, the bonds that give hair its structure are broken and then re-established to change hair's texture. To accomplish this, a stylist applies another solution, known as a neutralizer. Because a neutralizer could damage the hair if too much is applied or if it is left on for too long, the stylist must closely monitor the perm process.
When the neutralizer is applied, this re-establishes the bonds as they were shaped around the rods. Whether wavy, curly or ringlets, the desired appearance is then achieved, and the bonds have been rebuilt to strengthen the hair. The stylist then should thoroughly wash away the neutralizer to prevent any damage.
Slightly Drier Hair
One by-product of applying perm lotion is that your hair might be slightly drier afterward. When the bonds are broken down, some moisture can be released from the hair's cuticle. This might result in temporarily drier-feeling hair. It is best to apply perm lotion only to those people whose hair structure is already healthy and not dry, because the result can be split or dry ends and other hair damage.
