Commonly fruit acids, alpha hydroxy acid also includes lactic acid such as that naturally found in meat, cheese and yogurt. A common additive in anti-aging skin care products, alpha hydroxy acid is used for aging skin as well as some acne conditions. The use of alpha hydroxy acid may also smooth over dry patches or discolored areas, creating a more uniform complexion.
How It Works
Products containing alpha hydroxy acid cause the outermost layer of the skin to be shed, which is known as exfoliation. The depth of skin affected relates to the concentration of the acid. Stimulation of collagen and elastin occurs as the new skin is brought to the surface. In a facial peel, in which an alpha hydroxy solution is used, the potency may be between 20 and 70 percent, depending on the desired depth of the treatment. In cosmetics, the alpha hydroxy acid used would typically be around 5 percent to 10 percent.
Uses
Glycolic acid and lactic acid are the two most common alpha hydroxy acids used in cosmetics. Others include citric acid, hydroxycaprylic acid and hydroxycapric acid. Often added for the purpose of smoothing fine lines and wrinkles, alpha hydroxy acids may also be used to adjust skin pH and improve skin texture and tone.
Research
By teaming with the National Toxicology Program, the FDA has conducted studies to investigate the safety of using alpha hydroxy acids on a long-term basis. In a study titled "NTP Technical Report on the Photocarcinogenesis Study of Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid," it was determined that using alpha hydroxy acid did not affect the development of cancer cells. However, in a parallel study, it was determined that the use of alpha hydroxy acids doubles the chance of ultraviolet (UV) cellular damage from the sun.
Side Effects
Between 1992 and February 2004, the FDA has received 114 reports of adverse side effects experienced by users of alpha hydroxy acids. Forty-five people experienced a rash or dermatitis, 29 had swelling, 15 showed changes in skin pigmentation and others experienced itching, peeling skin and sunburn.
Caution
The use of alpha hydroxy products causes an increased sensitivity to sunlight. As sunburn is more likely, wear sunscreen and protective clothing as a safeguard. Limit sun exposure until one week after the use of an alpha hydroxy product. Under the FDA's Fair Packaging and Labeling Act, a product containing alpha hydroxy acid must be labeled as such.
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