Retinol is one active ingredient found in many cosmeceuticals--nonprescription skincare products that claim to beautify your complexion and reduce the appearance of aging skin. Although retinol is a type of antioxidant that may enhance the performance of wrinkle treatments, the American Academy of Dermatology cautions consumers to "separate fact from fiction" when choosing and using antiaging skincare products.
Identification
Retinol is the vitamin A molecule, in its entirety, explains cosmetics expert Paula Begoun, author of "The Beauty Bible." It's one type of antioxidant used in wrinkle treatments that can mitigate the effects of molecules that harm skin cells (free radicals) and increase your susceptibility to sun damage--and the development of cancerous lesions, says the Mayo Clinic. The efficacy of retinol in reducing the appearance of wrinkles, however, remains questionable.
What Cosmetics Experts Say
Begoun notes that the skin is extremely receptive to retinoic acid, the smaller component of vitamin A. For the skin cells to "communicate" with retinol, vitamin A must be broken down into retinoic acid. If the retinol in a skincare product converts to retinoic acid after it's applied to the skin is a point of much debate. Begoun states that newer wrinkle creams on the market contain more stable forms of retinol, and the effectiveness of such products is even supported by research.
What Dermatologists Say
The AAD echoes Begoun's concerns regarding the stability of retinol and other active ingredients in cosmeceuticals. Additionally, the AAD notes that there has been a consumer trend toward products that contain "multiple antioxidants, retinol plus anti-oxidants, growth factors plus vitamin C, and other unique combinations." While these individual ingredients have been studied, the combination of ingredients has not. The AAD states that more research is needed to make sure that they do indeed work as they claim.
Retinol or Tretinoin?
Retinoic acid is found in the prescription medication tretinoin, which goes by the trade names of Retin-A and Renova, among many others. Tretinoin is approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration for treating signs of photoaging, such as faint lines and wrinkles. The cosmetic scientists at Beauty Brains explain that tretinoin "irritates" the skin into producing new skin cells at an increased rate. As new skin cells more rapidly replace the old, the skin appears rejuvenated. Tretinoin use to treat wrinkles is supported by double-blind scientific study--it's proven to work. Retinol wrinkle creams don't undergo the same scrutiny.
Before You Use Retinol
Retinol wrinkle treatments aren't a "facelift in a jar," so be skeptical of outrageous promises. When selecting your retinol-based product, Begoun advises making sure it has appropriate packaging. Avoid jar packaging, as it lets air in, as well as clear containers that allow sunlight to hit the product. The AAD also urges you to make sure that your skin isn't sensitive to retinol or any other ingredient in your new product. Conduct a small "patch test" by applying a little bit of the cream on the inside of your wrist for three to four days before putting it on your face.
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