Hydroxy creams--those that contain hydroxy acids--are marketed to consumers as what the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) terms "cosmeceuticals." Hydroxy creams are only one of the treatments that purport to reverse aging of the skin. With a plethora of anti-wrinkle creams available at every drugstore and department store, consumers may wonder if hydroxy acid-based skincare products will perform up to their expectations. Mayo Clinic experts and the AAD state that wrinkle creams with certain active ingredients, including those that contain hydroxy acids, may indeed have a subtle effect on the skin.
About Hydroxy Acids
Hydroxy acids are synthesized acids derived from sugary fruits. Hydroxy creams have the properties of an exfoliant, gently sloughing away the outer layer of dead skin cells to reveal a smoother layer of skin underneath. Hydroxy acids are broken down into various categories, including alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) and poly hydroxy acids (PHAs). The two hydoxy acids considered to be most effective are AHAs and BHAs.
AHAs
If you're looking for a cream with AHAs, see if glycolic or lactic acids or a combination of both is listed on the product's label. Cosmetics expert Paula Begoun notes that in addition to acting as an exfoliant, AHAs also are beneficial to dryer skin types and may also increase collagen production. AHAs make Begoun's "A List" of age-fighting topical creams because they "improve the appearance of sun-damaged skin, dry skin, and thickened skin caused by a variety of factors, including abnormal cell growth, smoking and heavy moisturizers." She suggests looking for a hydroxy cream with an AHA concentration of between 5 percent and 15 percent for the safest, most effective product.
BHAs
BHA is also known as salicyclic acid and has most of the same properties as an AHA-based product. However, consumers dealing with pesky acne and blackheads may benefit from BHAs more because they also unclog pores and exterminate bacteria residing on the surface of the skin. If using a BHA cream for anti-aging purposes, Begoun says that it can "increase collagen production, smooth superficial lines, reduce redness and diminish sun-induced discolorations." Choose a product with a concentration of salicylic acid of 0.5 percent to 2 percent.
Guaranteed Success?
Hydroxy creams are cosmetics and therefore aren't subject to the rigorous standards applied to prescription topical creams by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, cautions the Mayo Clinic. There's also little testing to make sure that the product is both safe and effective. The Mayo Clinic notes that when products may be potentially harmful, the FDA will instruct the manufacturers to modify their warning labels. In 2002, the FDA made producers of alpha hydroxy acid skincare products to warn consumers that AHA increased their chances of getting a sunburn.
Before You Use
Mayo Clinic experts indicate that using a skincare product with hydroxy acid does put those who use them at increased risk of sun-damaged skin. Begoun points out the hazards of using AHA-based products in particular, noting that sunscreen must be used every day to protect the layer of more vulnerable skin that emerges after AHA use. "When it comes to getting a tan--forget about it," she says.
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