Finding the best anti-wrinkle treatments can be confusing, given the wide array of products available to consumers. Cosmetics expert Paula Begoun points out that products marketed as moisturizers, "anti-aging" or "anti-wrinkle" are largely the same. Regardless if sold in a cream, liquid or serum form, it's what's in the potion that makes the difference. The best anti-wrinkle treatments will contain a combination of ingredients that not only maintain the skin's structure, Begoun says, but prevent damage from free radicals, including such environmental factors as sun and pollution, and encourage more normal skin cell production. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) breaks down these "cosmeceuticals" into specific categories so you know what to look for in anti-wrinkle treatment labeling.
Retinoids
Retinoids are derived from vitamin A, which is found in colorful yellow, orange and red fruits as well as vegetables. They can also be chemically synthesized and used as a topical application to increase the rate at which dead skin cells turn over and new ones emerge.
The most effective anti-wrinkle treatment is a prescription retinoid, such as Retin-A and Renova, but retinols--weaker forms of vitamin A--are found in many consumer anti-wrinkle treatments. The AAD cautions that use of both prescription and over-the-counter vitamin A products can cause skin irritation, peeling and dryness and should be used according to instructions.
Hydroxy Acids
Hydroxy acids are added to anti-wrinkle treatments to gently exfoliate the outer layer of dead skin cells that shed less frequently as we age. These ingredients make the skin feel smoother and softer, and appear less "sallow."
Two commonly-used hydroxy acids are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic or lactic acids; and beta hydroxy acids (BHA), which is often used synonymously with salicylic acid. Although both have the same exfoliating properties, skincare products with salicylic acid are more commonly used by those with acne, as it has anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties.
It's important to use a sunscreen and avoid intentional sun exposure when using AHAs.
Botanicals
Roots, seeds, leaves and fruits are used to extract some of the more interesting active ingredients found in anti-wrinkle treatments, says the AAD. Many botanicals used in cosmetics contain antioxidants, a substance that protects the skin from environmental damage.
Antioxidants added to cosmeceuticals may include green tea, pomegranate and chamomile, among others, and are often incorporated as bonus ingredients in combination with moisturizers and sunscreens.
Sunscreen
Begoun and the AAD describe sunscreens as the cornerstone of all anti-aging skincare products and the best weapon against wrinkles. Sunscreens contain ingredients that deflect light away from your skin, preventing and reducing signs of photo-aging, as well as protecting against skin cancer.
The AAD recommends using a sunscreen with protection from both UVA and UVB radiation, regardless if it's incorporated into your moisturizer, make-up foundation or used as a stand-alone treatment during the course of outdoor recreation. The AAD advises selecting a skincare product with a sun protection factor of at least 30.
Member Comments