Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). AHAs, derived from fruit and milk sugars, are increasingly popular ingredients in skin care products and are an effective and generally safe way to rejuvenate skin and reduce the appearance of aging. Glycolic acid is one of the best known AHAs, and is commonly found in cleansers, exfoliants, moisturizers and skin treatments.
About Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid, derived from sugar cane, is one of the most commonly used AHAs. Other major types of AHAs are lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid. Glycolic acid is especially effective in penetrating the skin, which is one reason for its popularity. It is also the most-studied AHA, and ample scientific data is available about its effectiveness, safety and side effects.
How It Works
Glycolic acid works primarily as an exfoliant, penetrating the dead, damaged cells on the skin's surface and loosening the glue-like structures that bind this dead skin to the rest of the epidermis (topmost layer of skin). This allows the dead cells to slough off, revealing fresher skin cells. The result is smoother, more youthful-looking skin. Glycolic acid also draws moisture to the newly exfoliated skin.
Glycolic acid and other AHAs may also stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, which contribute to skin's tone and resilience.
Benefits
With daily use, glycolic acid and other AHAs may reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve roughness and mottled pigmentation caused by sun damage. With long-term use and in higher concentrations, glycolic acid can penetrate to the dermis, the deeper layer of skin where wrinkles are formed. Glycolic acid is especially beneficial for acne-prone skin, reducing blackheads and pimples and smoothing scars.
Safety
The Food and Drug Administration has determined that glycolic acid and other AHAs are safe for home cosmetic use in concentrations lower than 10 percent and at a pH level of 3 to 4. Professional chemical peels may have concentrations as high as 50 percent, which can leave the skin looking severely sunburned for several days.
Side Effects
Skin irritation and sun sensitivity are the major side effects of glycolic acid. People using skin care products that contain any AHA may experience redness, itching, burning, pain and possibly scarring. Scarring and hyperpigmentation (changes in skin color) are most likely in people with darker skin. The new skin revealed by glycolic acid use is highly sun-sensitive, so it's critical to use a high SPF sunscreen if you're using a skin care product that contains glycolic acid.
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