Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), group of substances derived from fruit and milk sugars and commonly found in cleansers, exfoliants, moisturizers and skin treatments designed to produce more smooth and youthful skin. All AHAs work in essentially the same way and produce similar results, but glycolic acid is the most commonly used.
About Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid, derived from sugar cane, is one of the most commonly used AHAs (other major types of AHAs are lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid). Glycolic acid is especially effective at penetrating the skin, which is one reason for its popularity. It's also the most-studied AHA, and scientific data from the "International Journal of Toxicology" is available about its effectiveness, safety and side effects.
How Glycolic Acid and Other AHAs Work
AHAs, including glycolic acid, function primarily as exfoliants. They penetrate the dead, damaged cells on the skin's surface and loosen the glue-like structures that bind this dead skin to the rest of the epidermis (topmost layer of skin). This allows the dead cells to slough off, revealing fresher skin cells. The result is smoother, more youthful-looking skin. AHAs may also stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, which contribute to skin's tone and resilience. Glycolic acid also draws moisture to the newly exfoliated skin.
Benefits
With daily use, AHAs may reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve roughness and mottled pigmentation caused by sun damage. Long-term use and higher concentrations allow AHAs to penetrate to the dermis, the deeper layer of skin where wrinkles are formed. Glycolic acid in particular may be helpful in for acne-prone skin, reducing blackheads and pimples and smoothing scars.
Safety
The FDA has determined that glycolic acid and other AHAs are safe for home cosmetic use in concentrations lower than 10 percent and at a pH level of 3 to 4. Professional chemical peels may have concentrations as high as 50 percent, which can leave the skin looking severely sunburned for several days.
Side Effects
Skin irritation and sun sensitivity are the major side effects of all AHAs. People using skin care products that contain any AHA may experience redness, itching, burning, pain and possibly scarring. Scarring and hyperpigmentation (changes in skin color) are most likely in people with darker skin. The new skin revealed by AHA use is highly sun-sensitive, so it's critical to use high SPF sunscreen if you're using a skin care product that contains AHAs.
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