Aging skin grows more sensitive and needs more care to look healthy, so using the right cosmetic products is a must. Which ones are safe or right for you? Millions of commercial choices are backed by advertised promises, but little more. The manufacture and sale of cosmetics are not regulated by the Food and Drug Administration unless serious complaints arise.
Everybody's skin makeup and history are different. For this reason, unless you have a diagnosed medical skin condition, dermatologists may hesitate to recommend anti-aging cosmetic products. What doctors will do is endorse scientifically proven active ingredients and let you choose the skin care products that contain them.
Exfoliants
Aging skin loses some of its ability to exfoliate. Exfoliating cleansers, scrubs and creams help your body slough off dead surface skin cells, encouraging new growth in their place. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) acknowledges the science behind alpha and beta hydroxy acids as exfoliant agents.
Many anti-aging cosmetic products contain these ingredients, which support ongoing renewal of the epidermis to keep pores open, clear and functional. Alpha hydroxy ingredients include lactic acid, citric acid and glycolic acid. The AAD also approves of the ingredient salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid in many skin care products that is effective in improving the appearance of facial skin.
Protectants
The only two skin care products that dermatologists do promote are moisturizer and sunscreen. Both are scientifically proven to live up to claims. Moisturizer actively smoothes rough, dry skin, reducing the look of fine lines and wrinkles. Broad-spectrum sunscreen absorbs UVA and UVB rays on exposed skin, effectively protecting it from sun damage.
Anti-aging cosmetic products may add skin-friendly vitamins, such as retinoids, to moisturizing creams and lotions. These may be listed as retinyl, retinol or retinoic acid on the label. Antioxidant ingredients in skin care products include azelaic acid and other plant compounds thought to protect sensitive aging skin from further environmental harm.
Toners
Some of the most potent and controversial anti-aging cosmetic products include ingredients meant to address irregularities in skin tone. Lifetime sun exposure and biochemical changes may cause skin to darken in patches. Creams and lotions that include kojic acid and hydroquinone adjust skin pigment for a more even look, and may prevent permanent age spots. These ingredients can be found in some clinical and over-the-counter skin lightening treatments.
Aging skin also benefits from the use of astringent toners after cleansing. These contain humectants that attract and bind water to the skin, effectively restoring its moisture balance.
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