Also called a "biners," this is the key piece of climbing equipment a climber owns. It attaches every single other piece of climbing equipment to your harness or gear sling and it connects the climber to her safety line--the rope.
All biners have sprung swinging gates that allow ropes and gear to be "clipped" into the biner. Most gates are straight, but some are bent. Bent gates curve inward toward the biner's spine and down toward the basket, thus enabling a (sport) climber to clip a rope in much faster and easier. Lighter wire-gate biners are popular these days because rather than a solid gate, a paperclip-like wire connects the nose of the basket end of the biner to the spine. Wire gates are also not susceptible to "gate whip"--when a climber takes a fall, vibrating equipment can sometimes cause a solid gate to open a bit and weaken significantly.
Typically biners come in an offset "D" shape, though some oval gates are still available. Most solid gate biners have a notched nose, but some biners have a keylock nose, which has a flat face with ridges on the side that fits into a slot on the gate. Carabiners also come in various sizes, from the smallest, lightest alpine climbing models that are smaller than your credit card to the biners the size of a small hand.
What to Look for
To determine which biner is right for you, start by figuring out which type of climbing you will be doing. Then check out any of the available gear guides published online or by "Rock & Ice" or "Climbing" magazines to view the latest, most affordable models. Finally, visit your local outdoor store to check out how the different-sized biners feel in your hands.
Sport climbers typically prefer quickdraws, which often consist of one straight-gate, offset "D" and one bent-gate biner and a piece of sewn webbing. Quickdraws with bent gates were constructed primarily for clipping ease. Traditional climbers find bent gates less convenient because they aren't as easy to use in all situations.
Most climbers like the wire gate biners because it's always nice to carry lighter gear, because they are easier to clip and because the gates don't ice up as often as other biners. However, they are most ideal for trad climbers who have to carry all the extra protection up the rock. Sport climbers don't have to worry about weight as much because they are only carrying quickdraws.
Common Pitfalls
The smallest, lightest wire gates are often difficult for men with big fingers to utilize. Plus, they are quite a bit more expensive. The only other pitfall in choosing which carabiner is right for you is in wading through the huge assortment of biners offered. There are dozens of companies that make them; they come in different colors, shapes and sizes and there's not a huge difference in quality between the best brands.
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