If you're concerned about finding skin care products with safe ingredients, the Mayo Clinic reminds consumers that it is up to you, not the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), to make this call most of the time. The components of cosmetic products are listed on the label in order from the greatest percentage of total content to the least. Active ingredients may be shown separately, and many compounds have multiple "aliases," which make it difficult to judge their true make-up and safety. Use the following examples to determine what's in the cleansers, moisturizing creams, sunscreens and other facial care products that you buy.
Humectants
Humectants are in moisturizing soaps, creams and lotions. These conditioning agents pull water from the environment and deeper skin tissue toward the epidermal surface to maintain a pliable barrier. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) lists glycerin, urea and propylene glycol as safe ingredients and effective humectants.
Emollients
Emollients are the luxurious lipids in moisturizing cosmetic products that make skin feel instantly smooth and soft. The Mayo Clinic notes that the more oil-rich emollients, the greater the protection for dry skin. It recommends petrolatum, mineral oil and lanolin as safe ingredients proven to restore surface hydration.
Exfoliants
Exfoliant cosmetic products may contain hydroxy acids as active ingredients or abrasive botanical components, such as oatmeal or crushed seeds. The AAD endorses alpha and beta hydroxy acids as effective in increasing cellular turnover in aging skin, which needs extra exfoliating help. Hydroxies glycolic, lactic and salicylic acid, as well as azelaic acid, kojic acid and retinoic acid, are considered safe ingredients, although they may irritate some types of sensitive skin.
UV Sunblocks
Because sunscreen cosmetic products make a claim to protect skin, the FDA does regulate their ingredients for efficacy. The Skin Cancer Foundation notes that 17 sunblock ingredients are approved for use as of 2010. The foundation recommends using a broad-spectrum sunscreen that absorbs or reflects both types of ultraviolet rays (UVA and UVB). For instance, ingredients avobenzone and ecamsule address UVA protection, while octisalate and octocrylene block UVB rays. Zinc oxide is the only safe ingredient that protects skin from all types of UV damage.
Fragrances, Colors and Preservatives
The AAD reports that more than 5,000 fragrances are used to perfume skin care products. They may be listed as natural essential oils or simply as "fragrance" on the package. The FDA does approve colors for skin care use, which may appear as D&C Red 33 or Yellow 5. Preservatives run the gamut from harsh formaldehyde and methylparaben to natural tocopheryl and ascorbic acid. Fragrance, color and preservative ingredients have the highest likelihood of causing skin irritations or allergic reactions, according to the AAD.
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