Noodles are one of the world's favorite foods. From American-style spaghetti and meatballs to Middle Eastern rishti, from Asian rice or bean thread noodles to the galaxy of Italian pasta, noodles are simple, satisfying and versatile. In Italy, one of the world's great pasta-eating cultures, two types are widely made and eaten. The first uses flour similar to American all-purpose flour, and it's made and eaten fresh. The second is the familiar dried pasta, which is made from hard durum wheat semolina.
Durum Wheat
Einkorn, emmer and durum are the oldest forms of wheat to be cultivated, according to food science writer Harold McGee. Of the three, only durum is still widely grown. Although it's used in some specialty breads, its primary role is in pasta-making. Coarsely ground durum semolina is used to make the dry pasta that accounts for most of the Western world's consumption. It's very different from freshly made pasta.
Fresh Versus Dry Pasta
Fresh and dry pasta are different in their ingredients and texture. Fresh pasta is made from flour with a moderate amount of gluten. It usually contains eggs and often olive oil, which give it a soft and silken texture. It can be dried for short-term storage, but is usually eaten immediately. Dry pasta, on the other hand, is made from a stiff dough that usually only contains semolina and water plus a few preservatives. It is extruded through a brass plate at high pressure to make spaghetti, macaroni and other shapes. It dries very hard, with a distinctive pale golden color.
Cooking the Pasta
One pound of dry pasta will provide about 3 pounds of cooked pasta. That's enough to serve four to six as a main meal or double that as a side dish. For the pasta to cook properly, you'll need at least a gallon of briskly boiling water and 1 to 2 tablespoons of salt for each pound of pasta. Cook the pasta at a full rolling boil, stirring regularly to keep it from sticking, until it is tender but still slightly firm.
Using the Pasta
If you're serving the pasta right away, drain it and immediately toss it with sauce, or portion it into individual bowls for your guests to sauce as they wish. If you're preparing the pasta for use as a cold ingredient, or for reheating later, rinse it under cold running water to prevent it from cooking any further. Allow the pasta to drain thoroughly. If you plan to hold the pasta for later use, toss it with 1 to 2 tablespoons of oil to keep it from sticking together. Package it in an airtight bag or container, and refrigerate until it's needed.
References
- On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen; Harold McGee
- Professional Cooking; Wayne Gisslen
